Ignacio Allende's birthday!

Today is the birthday of Ignacio Allende, born Jan. 21, 1769 in San Miguel.  He was a captain in the Spanish Army but was one of the leaders of the Mexican revolution.  Depending on what town you are in in Mexico, different people are THE leader of the revolution and of course here in San Miguel de Allende, Allende is THE leader.  Last week we visited his home next to the Parish church.  The first floor has a summary of local history starting with the arrival of the Spanish and upstairs are rooms arranged as they might have been when Allende's family lived there.

Ignacio Allende in the parade

Ignacio Allende sculpture on his house

The Revolution's history is somewhat confusing, but it appears that when Spain under the Bourbon dynasty reorganized its control over its American colonies it resulted in less power for the local wealthy population and an increase in taxes.  These disenfranchised locals decided to at least temporarily side with the deposed King Ferdinand VII and start a revolution. With an army of 30,000 peasants the leaders marched towards Mexico City.  Despite overtaking numerous towns in bloody victories, for some reason the leader of the army, Miguel Hidalgo, went against Allende's advice and retreated (I'm sure the town of Dolores Hidalgo would have some other interpretation though).  Allende and others were captured and executed in Chihuahua in 1811, shot in the back as traitors, as they were attempting to reach the young United States for assistance.  Ultimately though Mexico did gain independence from Spain in 1836.

The festivities started last night with a small torch lit parade of people dressed as peasants fighting for Allende in the Revolution led by Allende on horseback.  A school marching band named for the Allende's regiment led the parade with snare drums and bugles.  After a couple turns around the plaza Allende and the peasants posed on the steps of the church for photos.  (Allende tried to get his horse to climb the steps, but the horse was having none of that - bad enough all those peasants with flaming torches around!).  Once the revolutionary army dispersed a local band called Tuna Provincial played on a stage set up in front of the church.  They were all men dressed in Elizabethan looking outfits and they played stringed instruments of all sizes.  Songs were mostly romantic Spanish and Mexican songs like Besame Mucho.  They did have an incredible soloist who could have sung opera.

Peasants in the evening parade

School named for Allende's regiment

Wednesday began with official speeches which we did not attend.  We got to the parade route a little before 11 am and found a spot across from the reviewing stand set up on the plaza. There were people lining the route, more people than we've seen in San Miguel so far!  The parade started off with the local law enforcement officers from traffic enforcement to scary looking anti-terror squads.  That was followed by an endless school groups most with drums and bugles.  We have heard the school below our house practicing several times a day for this event.  The school kids were followed by the federal troops.

You may be able to see the muzzled attack dog by the middle officer

A young Allende

School kids marching

Marching chefs maybe from the University?

Federal army troops

The only protestors I saw were holding a banner about the Ayotzinapa 43 students from Guerrero

The cavalry

Fancy pattern on the horse's rump

People getting their picture taken in front of the a portrait of Allende

In the evening there was a highly unusual for this time of year rain storm, but it did not seem to dampen the turnout for the concert and fireworks.  The concert was a huge collection of mariachis from the province with some incredible singers including Alicia Lopez (hear a recording of one of her concerts here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdiKN9pBYfI).

The Mariachi concert

But I think there's only so much mariachi music I can take.  As the concert ended though the fireworks began.  First they appeared  from just behind the church.

The first fireworks - in the foreground is the tower for more fireworks

We were sitting on the low wall between the plaza and the church 20 feet from a tower that was laced with fireworks.  A guy holding a knife and smoking a cigarette would light a fuse that led to one of the wheels on the tower, light the fuse using his cigarette, and the flames would spurt up the tower and the wheel would spin around making a high pitched whine as sparks flew from it in great showers.  After one wheel was done he'd stamp out some sparks and light another.  At the very end a star on the very top spins around and takes off up into the air.  It came down right between us and the tower.

The first round of fireworks from the tower

A little hard to make out in the smoke but it is a portrait of Allende with 246 above and Aniversario below

The last fireworks went off right in front of the church.  I've never felt so close to a fireworks show before and it was amazing the be right under the umbrellas of sparks that lit up the night sky.