Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Buenos Aires - Puerto Madero and Recoleta











On Monday I walked around our neighborhood and the microcentro, and around 1pm we met our wonderful travel agent who had arranged the apartment and our future travel to Uruguay and Iguazu. She gave us maps and vouchers and from her office in the Microcentro we walked over to Puerto Madero, the newest addition to BA’s trendy neighborhoods. This area forms a long strip along what used to be the port. The brick warehouses have been converted to offices and apartments and the water is filled with sailboats and yachts. On the other side of the water are chrome and glass corporate offices. We ate at a restaurant the guidebook recommended called Bice. The prices were outrageous, but the food was excellent and it was extremely pleasant sitting outside with cool breezes from the river. Jake had eaten at the Bice - New York. We don’t think they’d appreciate being called a chain though! Jake had a Lasagna Bolognese and I had a spinach salad with mozzarella, parmesan and parma ham. The meal came with lots of extras – small slices of pizza, a little plate of sweets and a glass of limoncello, but the bill came with extra “service charges” as well.

After our elegant meal we decided to head up the BA’s most fashionable cemetery. The Recoleta cementery is packed from end to end with mausoleums and monuments to BA’s best known families. It was really quite remarkable for the different styles of monuments. We didn’t try to seek out any particularly famous people, but just wandered around. A lot of the people who have streets named after them are buried there. Currently the only living residents of the cemetery appear to be feral cats. We meandered along the streets of Recoleta admiring the pretty apartment buildings and fancy stores. It could have Madison Avenue with more trees.
In the evening we walked over to the Ateneo bookstore. If you’re in BA, be sure to go to this store! The bookstore is housed in an old theatre complete with balconies and a painted dome ceiling. The stage has become a coffee shop and the balcony has armchairs where the box seats used to be. There is a great collection of books and classical music CDs. I got a little field guide for Iguazu and another book on Patagonia plants and wildlife by the author of “Invasores en Patagonia” which I had picked up in Mendoza.

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